How to Make a Double Ply Reversible Scarf

Gawin: http://www.etsy.com/listing/100254157/men-silk-scarf-prestige-gray-plaid-silky?ref=related-3




Instructions

1. • 1
     Lay out the fabric with the selvage edges (the woven, uncut edges running parallel to each other) at the top and bottom of the fabric. Make a 1/2-inch cut into the top selvage at the left and right upper corners of the fabric. Pull a crosswise thread that appears at each cutting point until the threads travel all the way down to the other selvage edge. You should see two straight vertical lines in the fabric.
   • 2
     Cut along each vertical line to square the edges of the silk.
   • 3
     Fold the silk lengthwise with right sides facing in. Match the corners and edges carefully and pin the edges to hold them in place.
   • 4
     Sew the three edges with the sewing machine, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Leave a 5-inch opening at some point along the long side for turning the scarf right side out.
   • 5
     Turn the scarf right side out carefully, pulling the corners to make them pointed.
   • 6
     Set the iron to a silk setting and press the scarf well.
   • 7
     Cut an 18-inch length of thread and thread the needle. Pull the thread to make a double length of thread and tie a knot in the ends of the thread.
   • 8
     Slipstitch the opening closed using tiny stitches. Tie a knot at the end of the stitching and cut off the excess thread to finish.

Tips & Warnings

• Make a two-toned reversible scarf by using two 2-yard by 22-inch lengths of fabric instead. Place the fabrics together with right sides facing each other and stitch around all four sides, leaving the same opening for turning. Finish the scarf in the same way as for the single-fabric scarf.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_8109370_make-double-ply-reversible-scarf.html#ixzz2inyR3y24

Minimalist Tote Bag

Tutorial: http://www.designsponge.com/2010/10/diy-project-renskes-minimalist-tote-bag.html

More: http://www.brit.co/diy-totes/

Reversible Tote

Tutorial: http://www.danamadeit.com/2012/07/tutorial-reversible-lined-color-blocked-tote.html

Double-Turn Hemming

Here's a tutorial on how to make a simple hem from Sew4Home.


The first thing to do is determine how big a hem you need to get the finished length you want.

Most people prefer to err on the side of narrow over wide so there's less bulk to the folded fabric and the hem will lay nice and flat. In fact, it's often better to trim your fabric just a bit rather than make a giant hem.

Large
Let's say you have 2" to work with for the bottom of a curtain. First, fold in your raw edge ¾" and press. Then, make another fold 1¼". Your first fold rolls inside the second and you end up with a nice folded edge on both the top and bottom. Press this double fold and stitch down, sewing close to the fold in the fabric.

Medium
Perhaps you'd like a narrower option for the edge of a pillow back opening or the bottom of a table cloth. In this case fold under ½" and press. Then fold under an additional 1½" and press. As above, stitch the hem down, sewing close to the fold in the fabric.



Small
Sometimes, you need a tiny hem for something like a napkin edge. In this case, your double-turn should be just ¼" to start and then a second ¼" to finish. This is also called a "rolled hem" and on many machines you have a presser foot called, unusually enough, a Rolled Hem foot to help you do the job. This specialty foot comes standard on many machines, like the Janome models we recommend at Sew4Home, or you can purchase it separately.

How to Draw the Bobbin Thread

I struggled with this a few times, but I think I'm getting the hang of it. Here's a good pictorial from Brother.

1.	Pass the thread along the slit in the direction of the arrow, and leave it there without cutting it.
	The bobbin cover should still be removed.
2.	Raise the presser foot using the presser foot lever.
	Presser foot lever
3.	Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.
	Upper thread
4.	While holding the end of the upper thread, raise the needle either by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing needle position button (for models equipped with the needle position button) once or twice.
	Mark on the handwheel Needle position button
5.	Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower thread.
	Upper thread Lower thread
6.	Pull out about 10 cm (4 inch) of both threads and pull them toward the back of the machine under the presser foot.
	Upper thread Lower thread
7.	Replace the bobbin cover.

Mitered Corners Redux

This tutorial from Sew4Home gives very good instructions and I thought this was finally the one that was going to work for my project. But like the first ones I tried, I realized this technique would work only if the sides have been hemmed, as opposed to the raw edges I have.

This sample was made for our Citrus Holiday napkin project, but you can use it anytime you need a narrow hemmed corner.

1. Along all edges, turn right side under ¼" and press well.
2. Turn another ¼" all around and press well.
3. Unfold both ¼" turns so your fabric lays flat. You should be able to see the fold lines of both turns.
   
4. Fold the corner at a 45˚ angle so the point of the corner lines up with the intersection of the second set of fold lines. Press.
   
5. Fold corner a second time, again at a 45˚ angle. Press.
   
6. Re-fold your first ¼" turn along its original fold line and press well.
   
7. Refold along your second ¼" fold line and press. If you've been careful with your measurements, turns and pressing, this second re-fold will create a diagonal line where your two finished edged meet, making a neat split corner.
   
8. Edgestitch around all folded edges, back-tacking two to three stitches at each corner. Make sure your back-tacking crosses over the split corner to help this split say closed.
   
9. Press from the front to finish.
   
   

Mitered Corners

My first sewing project are table napkins and for the past couple of days, I have been struggling with mitered corners. The original size of the first table napkin I'm working on is 18 inches, but due to all the errors I've been making, it's now down to 10 inches! Thankfully, I'm using roll-end fabrics that don't cost much. I think I finally got the technique I need for this particular project from Sweet Tea and Pearls. I am so glad as I was getting really frustrated. This was the second option I was considering but Sweet Tea & Pearl's technique gave sharper miter corners for me.

Turn down 1/2" towards the wrong side of your fabric on each side and press.

Now, turn down 1" and press again. Place a pin on each side where the fabric intersects.

With right sides together, fold your napkin on the diagonal so that the pins meet, having edges even.

Draw a line from the pins to where the creases meet on the fold line. Stitch along this line backstitching at the beginning and end of the seamline. Do this on all 4 corners.

Cut the corners to about a 1/4" seam allowance on all corners.

Open up the napkin and lay it flat so that you can press open the seam allowance on each corner.

Now, turn corners back in and press making sure your corners are sharp.

Stitch close to the edge of each side. Press your napkin and you're ready to go!